5 January 2009

Cervieres & Freissinieres

Since a good start at Ceillac (Sombre Heroes ice and mixed) we have been getting familiar with some of the other mixed crags in the area.

Cervieres is a good little venue with some 30m mixed and ice lines dominated by the Tube, a dagger hanging down the centre of the crag. The premier mixed line of the crag is Changement de slip, a route that involves ditching axes and laybacking a big flake while smearing with crampons then, as Andy demonstrated, jam behind the flake. When we were at Cervieres the tube had only just touched down (about 100mm diameter at the base!) so I wasnt about to belt that with a Fusion, but the mixed line (Aux lames citoyens) to the left joined the dagger at half height so I decided to do this. Blunt fusions and fresh cold ice lead to an interesting finish on this quality route. So this was not my usual climbing territory as it was more Scottish than figure 4 but all in all an enjoyable crag.

Freissinieres; Tete de Gramusat.....

NOT a little crag.....

(photo Andy Turner)

As you can see in the previous post this is a big cliff (the ice route starting in the bottom LH corner, Geronimo, is a 550m grade 5). Trouble is the ice is a bit questionable now so the photo above is me working Hasta la vista that is located in the sheltered bay to the right of Geronimo. It's a tricky line as it has seen very little traffic and it's missing the ice dagger, maybe next time?.......

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